屈原放逐留迹 “大坟”是何模样
Da fen---The Tale of Qu Yuan's Exile

楚天都市报极目新闻记者 黄志刚
通讯员 徐凯
Reporter: Huang Zhigang
Correspondent: Xu Kai
翻译:程卓 孟琼露 许洲(湖北大学)
Translators: Cheng Zhuo, Meng Qionglu, Xu Zhou (Hubei University)
在荆江大堤最东端的湖北荆州监利市,一座相对高度约23米、方圆不到2平方千米的山丘,因形似雄狮被当地人称为“狮子山”,屈原在《哀郢》中称其为“大坟”。
At the east end of the Jingjiang Levee of Jianli City, Jingzhou, Hubei Province, a hill, standing about 23 meters high and covering an area of less than two square meters, is named “Lion Mountain” for its lion-like appearance. It is called “Da fen” (a huge tomb) in Ai ying, a representative work of Qu Yuan (a patriotic poet in the Warring States Period).
狮子山东北方约10千米,还巍巍伫立着一座杨林山。两山宛如威严的武士,守望着东逝的长江水,诉说着历史的更迭。
About 10 kilometers northeast of the Lion Mountain stands the Yanglin Mountain. The two mountains mentioned resemble august warriors guarding the murmuring grand Yangtze River and recounting historical changes.
巍巍狮子山,蕴藏着史前文明
The Majestic Lion Mountain Embraces Prehistorical Civilization
3月中旬,极目新闻记者随同监利市白螺镇文史爱好者、退休教师陈爱明,一同探寻狮子山背后的故事。沿着荆江大堤东行至尽头,当陈爱明指着眼前一处山丘时,记者感到惊诧——被人津津乐道的狮子山,竟只有约六七层楼高。山顶之地,也不过方寸之间。
In mid-March, reporters sought to explore the story behind the Lion Mountain as they followed Chen Aiming, a retired teacher and lover of literature and history living in Bailuo County, Jianli City. Along the Jinjiang River Levee to the east end, when Chen pointed to a hill before them, the Jimu reporter was amazed that the Lion Mountain, discussed enthusiastically by others, should be only about six or seven stories high with a small mountaintop range.
狮子山虽小,历史却不凡。考古专家曾在狮子山及周边,发掘出远古猛犸象膝关节化石,还发现多处史前人类遗址。早在五六千年前,狮子山周围就有古人类活动的踪迹,明确为新石器时代石家河文化类型,即楚文化发祥地之一,均有据可考。
Small as it is, the Lion Mountain boasts a remarkable and profound history. Fossils of ancient mammoth knee joints were once excavated around the Lion Mountain and several prehistoric human sites discovered by geological experts. In the surrounding area of the mountain, some traces of ancient human activity have been found dating back to five or six thousand years ago. They are testified to be from the Shijiahe Culture in Neolithic Age, one of the cradles of Chu Culture in the Spring and Autumn Period as well as the Warring States Period.
此外,据《史记·五帝本纪》记载,黄帝与蚩尤战于涿鹿之野,黄帝在狮子山预伏兵马,将蚩尤围困,并登上江心山岛擂鼓助威。如今,狮子山外的长江江中确有一座小岛,名叫“擂鼓台”。狮子山现存石碑有记:“轩辕掘井取水,云霞自井出,后人名之‘轩井流霞’。”
According to Records of the Historian, during the Battle of Zhuolu, the Yellow Emperor (an ancestor of Chinese civilization) besieges Chi You (another ancestor of Chinese civilization) in the Lion Mountain with his troops stationed there and then they land on the island in the middle of the river besides, beating drums to boost morale. The truth is that in the Yangtze River outside the Lion Mountain, there is indeed a small island known as “the Drum Beating Platform”. An existing stone tablet on the mountain tells a story of the Emperor Xuan Yuan who once dug a well where reflections of water appear to be glowing and flowing out of it at sunset.
浪漫神话外,还有恢弘战国史
Besides Romantic Legends, Here Embraces a Marvelous History in the Warring States Period
“神话传说本就有浪漫主义色彩。”陈爱明说,狮子山主峰南面的望郢亭,相传是为纪念楚国三闾大夫屈原而建。
Chen said that myths and legends are inherently romantic. Located in the south of the Lion Mountain's main peak, the Wangying Pavilion is said to have been built in memory of Qu Yuan.
史料记载,公元前305年,因受奸臣谗言挑拨,屈原被楚怀王免去左徒之职,贬为“三闾大夫”流放汉北。继位的楚顷襄王更昏庸,将回朝的屈原再次逐放。约公元前296年,屈原踏上逐放之路,在名篇《哀郢》中写道:“将运舟而下浮兮,上洞庭而下江。背夏浦而西思兮,哀故都之日远。登大坟以远望兮,聊以舒吾忧心。”
According to historical records, in 305 BC, at the behest of treacherous courtiers, Qu Yuan was dismissed from his position as “Left Prime Minister” by King Huai of Chu, who then exiled him north of the Han River. King Qingxiang who succeeded King Huai of Chu was more fatuous and banished Qu Yuan again upon his return to court. Circa 296 BC, on his way to exile, Qu yuan wrote the famous work Ai Ying, which mentioned Da fen (the Lion Mountain), to express his complicated emotions of having to flee and his attachment to the motherland.
陈爱明说,按照地理方位推断,与洞庭隔江相对的“大坟”,就是狮子山了。狮子山周围民众为纪念屈原,在狮子山建起“望郢亭”。古望郢亭最早可追溯到汉代,后遭日寇损毁。1984年,当地群众自发捐资在废墟上重建。
Chen said that according to the geological position, in the opposite of the Dongting Lake is Da fen, the Lion Mountain. In memory of Qu yuan, the local people around the mountain built the Wangying Pavilion with its history that could be dated back to as early as Han Dynasty. Later on, the pavilion was destroyed by Japanese invaders but was then restored using donations from locals in 1984.
记者看到,现存的望郢亭属仿古寺庙形建筑,遥望着屈原投江的洞庭湖方向。陈爱明说,每年端午当地人会自发前来拜谒,凭吊屈原。
The reporter saw that the existing Wangying Pavilion is an antique temple-shaped building, facing the direction of Dongting Lake where Qu Yuan drowned himself. Chen said that the local people spontaneously come to pay their respects to Qu Yuan at every Dragon Boat Festival.
狮子山“当关”,自古为兵家必争地
The Lion Mountain: A Strategic Location Since Ancient Times
狮子山虽不大,却不失为雄关。位于长江白螺矶的葫芦口,因形似葫芦而得名。狮子山恰巧扼守葫芦口,为军事要塞,自古就是兵家必争之地。
Although not large in size, the Lion Mountain is still a crucial pass. Located in Bailuoji County along Yangtze River, the mouth of Gourd is named after its resemblance to a gourd. Guarding the mouth of the Gourd, the Lion Mountain is a military fortress and has been a place of strategic importance for soldiers since ancient times.
赤壁之战,曹操败走华容道。《三国演义》曾描述:“孔明遣张飞在葫芦口截杀,曹军仓皇溃逃。”此处的“葫芦口”就是狮子山脚下,长江白螺矶的一处隘口。
In the Battle of the Red Cliff, Cao Cao lost and retreated via Huarong Road. Luo Guanzhong once described in Romance of the Three Kingdoms that, Kong Ming ordered Zhang Fei to intercept at the mouth of Gourd, and Cao Cao's army fled in a hurry. The mouth of Gourd here is a pass of Bailuoji at the foot of the Lion Mountain.
陈爱明查阅史料发现,东晋隆安二年(公元398年),桓玄欲代晋自立,控制了长江中下游,曾在狮子山设粮草转运站。荆州刺史殷仲堪率水师仓皇而下,与桓玄军遇于三江口,发生了史上有名的“荆河垴之役”。
Chen discovered from historical records that in the second year of Long'an during the Eastern Jin Dynasty (AD 398), Huan Xuan attempted to seize the throne and control the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River. He established a grain and grass transfer station at the Lion Mountain. Yin Zhongkan, the prefectural governor of Jingzhou led the navy downstream in a hurry, but encountered Huan Xuan's army at Sanjiangkou, leading to the historic “Battle of Jinghe Ridge”.
地方志还有记载,1938年10月,日军攻占狮子山,派重兵驻守,在附近修建飞机场,一度掌控中原地区制空权。当时中国军民奋起在狮子山与日军抗争,多次破坏日军机场,摧毁敌机200多架。如今在狮子山附近,依然残留着日军当年修建的碉堡。“这是日本侵华的有力罪证。”陈爱明说。
Local chronicles also record that in October 1938, the Japanese army captured the Lion Mountain, sent troops to garrison it, built an airfield nearby, and once controlled the air supremacy in the Central Plains region. At that time, the Chinese military and civilians fought the Japanese army at the Lion Mountain, repeatedly sabotaging Japanese airfields and destroying more than 200 enemy aircraft. Today, there are still bunkers built by the Japanese army near the Lion Mountain. “This is powerful evidence of Japan's aggression against China.” Chen Aiming said.
灵秀杨林山,宛如仙女仰卧图
The Elegant Yanglin Mountain Resembles a Reclining Fairy
杨林山在狮子山东北方约10千米,与狮子山粗犷、险峻不同,杨林山山势绵延,植被繁茂,远看多了几分俊秀、柔美。地质学家研究发现,湖北监利的狮子山、杨林山原本与长江对岸湖南临湘的马鞍山属同一山脉。
The Yanglin Mountain is about 10 kilometers northeast of the Lion Mountain. Unlike the Lion Mountain, which is rough and steep, the Yanglin Mountain stretches with lush vegetation, which appears more peaceful and beautiful from a distance. Geologists have found that Lion Mountain and Yanglin Mountain in Jianli, Hubei Province, originally belonged to the same mountain range as the Ma'anshan Mountain in Linxiang, Hunan, on the other side of the Yangtze River.
极目新闻记者站在长江大堤上,从西面远望,杨林山绵延起伏,曲线柔和,犹如一幅仙女仰卧图。
Standing on the embankment of the Yangtze River and looking westward, the Yanglin Mountain undulates gently, with soft curves, resembling a picture of a reclining fairy.
无人机航拍画面显示:满山葱茏的翠柏,像极了美人的衣裙;南面略显突兀,状如鹅颈的天鹅山,是其头颈;天鹅山前的龟山和晒网山,低矮呈穹隆形,是其髻鬟;天鹅山偏北主峰雨台山,高而略平,与东西两端并列的山峰构成其胸部;雨台山往北,山势渐低的燕窝山是其腹部;狭长的山梁木星山则是其跨腿。
The aerial footage captured by the drone shows the lush green cypress trees covering the mountains, resembling the skirt of a beauty. To the south, the Swan Mountain stands out with its neck-like shape, while the Turtle Mountain and the Sun-drying Net Mountain in front of it are low and dome-shaped, resembling a hair bun. To the northwest of Swan Mountain, the main peak Yutai Mountain is tall and slightly flat, forming the chest along with the peaks at its eastern and western ends. Further north, the gradually declining Yanwo Mountain forms the belly, while the long and narrow Muxing Mountain represents the legs.
走近杨林山东面沿江一侧,峭壁绵亘,暗礁密布。靠近岸边约30米的长江水道中,有两块礁石露出。近看犹如猿臂伸入江中,远观又像乌龟俯卧江面,妙不可言。
As one approaches the eastern side of the Yanglin Mountain along the riverbank, towering cliffs stretch for miles, and hidden reefs are scattered throughout the waters. About 30 meters from the shore, two rocks emerge from the surface of the Yangtze River, resembling the outstretched arms of an ape when viewed up close, or a turtle lying prone on the surface of the river when viewed from afar. The sight is truly enchanting and captivating.
天妃庙加持,平添杨林山灵气
The blessing of the Tianfei Temple adds to Yang Linshan's aura
杨林山海拔高度为78.88米,记者行至山顶,一幢气势恢宏的古刹——天妃庙便映入眼帘。
Arriving at the top of the Yanglin Mountain which is 78.88 meters above sea level, Jimu reporters were greeted by a magnificent ancient temple named Tianfei Temple.
据考证,天妃庙始建于唐懿宗时期,至今约1000多年历史。庙内供奉的“天妃圣母娘娘”,名叫肖慈珍,为江西南昌府丰城县白竹坡人。相传其8岁在江西湖口县城南落水身亡,后沿长江逆水而上,来到杨林山被封为水神。后来,当地人在杨林山香炉峰矶头为她修“天妃娘娘庙”,以祈求长江沿岸百姓风调雨顺。
Evidence shows that the Tianfei Temple was founded by the Emperor Yizong of Tang Dynasty over 1000 years ago. The immortal worshiped inside the temple is the Tianfei Queen Mother whose original name is Xiao Cizhen, who was born in the Bai Zhupo, Fengcheng County, Nanchang City, Jiangxi Province. A legend tells that she died in the water in the south of Hukou County of Jiangxi Province when she was only 8 years old, however, her soul successfully reached Yanglin Mountain against the stream of Yangtze River, hence she was worshiped as the immortal of the water. Later, the local people along the river built the Tianfei Temple on the Xianglu Peak of Yanglin Mountain in her memory to pray for prosperity.
传说明成化二年(公元1466年),罗太后患疮,遍请名医无效。当朝宰相便献计:挂出皇榜,有治得国母病好者,贾银千两,官封万户。相传天妃娘娘化为道姑,赴京揭榜。使用杨林山取来的水,罗太后病情大有好转。为此,宪宗皇帝御笔敕封“天妃圣母肖后元君”并敕牌匾,从此天妃庙闻名天下,香火不断。
It is said that in the second year of Emperor Chenghua (also called Emperor Xianzong) of Ming Dynasty (AD 1466), the emperor's mother named Luo searched for famous doctors all over to treat her sores but was unsuccessful. In such condition, the prime minister suggested posting an official notice to find anyone capable of curing the Queen Mother would be awarded thousands tael of silver and a noble position. When Tianfei learned of this, she disguised herself as a Taoist nun and cured Queen Mother Luo with water from Yanglin Mountain. Emperor Xianzong thus thanked Tianfei and awarded her with an imperial tablet. Since then, the Tianfei Temple has grown in popularity and enjoyed endless offerings.
传说无从考证,但敕封的牌匾一直悬于天妃庙大殿之上。天妃庙后经历数个朝代,多次毁损又重建。1983年,杨林山群众自发捐钱出力,耗资数十万元,用3个月在原址按原貌复修。记者如今看到,天妃庙大殿飞檐曲顶,内饰有彩墨壁画,楹联巨匾高悬,处处体现雕艺的精巧。
Although the legends are difficult to prove, the imperial tablet continues to hang inside the temple. As time went by, the Tianfei Temple was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. In 1983, the local people of Yanglin Mountain area spent more than ten thousand yuan to renovate the temple to its original appearance within 3 months. Thus the reporters were still able to appreciate the temple's splendid building style and exquisite decorations, which demonstrates the excellent arts created by craftsmen.
因天妃庙,俊秀的杨林山更增添几分灵气。当地群众说,每逢初一、十五,天妃庙香火旺盛,长江对岸的湖南香客也会慕名而来。
The Yanglin Mountain is beautiful enough, but it has been etherealized even more thanks to the Tianfei Temple. According to the locals, pilgrims are the most numerous when they meet on the first and fifteenth day of the first lunar month, with even those from the Hunan Province visiting to give their offerings.
借名山出圈,打造文旅特色小镇
A Cultural Tourism Town Based on the Mountain's Fame
狮子山、杨林山静卧于长江之畔,见证着白螺镇的兴衰变迁。地方志记载,从明朝起,白螺一带工商业曾兴盛一时。
The two mountains, Lion Mountain and Yanglin Mountain, lying beside the Yangtze River, have witnessed the rise and fall of Bailuo Town. Local historical records show that Bailuo Town once experienced prosperity in both industry and commerce.
2010年底,在狮子山与杨林山之间,一座横跨长江、连接鄂湘两地的荆岳长江大桥通车。白螺镇的桥头堡地位更加凸显,监利的“东大门”更加便捷。目前,白螺镇计划将狮子山、杨林山的文旅资源串联成珠,打造文旅特色小镇。
At the end of 2010, the Jingyue Bridge which links Hubei and Hunan across the Yangtze River was opened to traffic, giving Bailuo Town a more prominent position as the “East Gate of Jianli City” so as to offer more convenience. Bailuo Town, at present, is aiming to build itself as a cultural tourism town based on the tourism resources of the two mountains.
杨林山的发展前景让杨林山村党支部书记刘度生看到了希望,他在山脚开起了农家乐,小儿子刘衍超负责打理,“乡村旅游做起来了,生活就更有盼头。”
Liu Dusheng is the secretary of the village Party branch, he believes the future development of Yanglin Mountain is bright and hopeful, so he built a farmhouse at the foot of the mountain, with his younger son, Liu Yanchao, in charge. He said “Life here will improve even further if tourism is well developed.”
让小镇更有盼头的是,一座占地3500多亩、总投资超200亿的造纸基地,正在白螺镇拔地而起。“每天2000多辆大货车来回穿梭,乡亲们不再背井离乡。”刘度生说,他准备让在东莞打工的大儿子刘建普回来,在古镇崛起中寻找机遇。
A more encouraging development is the establishment of a paper-making base in Bailuo Town covering an area of more than 3,500 mu with a total investment of more than 20 billion yuan. “More than 2,000 trucks shuttle back and forth every day, and villagers no longer have to leave their homes anymore.” Liu said to reporters he planned to call his elder son, Liu Jianpu, who is working in Dongguan (a city in Guangdong Province), and ask him to return to find new career opportunities in Bailuo Town as it is now growing.
